It was raining lightly as our ferry motored from Narragansett to Block Island, and raining a little harder as we lugged our gear off the boat, across the parking lot, and over to the white van where Jamie directed us (Jamie Ciffo, Production Coordinator). All the musicians playing in that day of the festival (Tuesday 9 June) had been instructed to be on this boat. We fit our various amps and instruments into the van, then walked across the street to the Harborside Hotel to check in. By the time I had checked in and brought my bags up to my room, the van was already driving away to the venue with the gear. No big deal; I followed my instructions and walked there—must’ve been about a quarter to a third of a mile.
Captain Nick’s is red on the outside and plain wood on the inside, as I remember it. Outside, there’s a nice deck, where those of us in the early slots would’ve played our sets if it hadn’t been raining. As it was, we were all moved inside, which was cool, because the space inside was unusual: a stage facing a bar, with some space in between for a narrow sitting bar and some tables, and a ceiling over the stage that went up two floors. A balcony above allows patrons sitting at the little tables up against the railing to see the stage below. It is a cool set-up.
I met Marc Scortino, the Festival Director, and he welcomed me and gave me the low-down, including giving me my FestiBucks, which were coupons good for purchases at a handful of establishments apparently all owned by the same person or company.
I brought my guitar back to my room and roughed out on guitar some ideas for a song that had come to me on the ferry, based on the droning sound of the motor. Then I ate lunch at the Harbor Grille, then set out walking, half looking for a pay phone to call home and half just walking to walk. My wife and I have visited Block Island before a few times, so I started in the direction of these beautiful bluffs we love. The rain had stopped, and the remaining gray-white sky gave the island a different kind of beauty—a quieter, more dramatic one. I left the road and walked down to the beach in a place where few people were at the time. An abandoned stone jetty stretched straight out into the water, impervious to the strong wind and waves that crashed against it. I walked out, almost slipping on the vivid grean sea vegetation that grew all over it, and stood at the end a little while. When I returned to the sandy shore, I resisted the temptation to swim, given that I had no suit and no towel, and that the air temperature was probably below 60, and perhaps the water temperature as well.
On the way back along the beach, I saw a middle-aged couple. (By middle age, I suppose I mean 40 or 45 up to about 65. Because our culture fears and denies death, we seem bent on postponing aging more and more: “40 is the new 30,” and so forth. If we were realistic about it, middle age would begin at about 30, given that most people don’t live longer than 90. Being 40 myself, I think about these things.) Anyway, back to the couple: the woman had started walking away, but the man called her back to see that he had scraped onto a stone their initials inside a heart. I wondered how she would react. I wondered what the man was feeling. Was he feeling great love, and wanted to shout it from the rooftops? Or, was he wanting to woo the woman, proving to her that he was sincere?
I had time for a little snack back at my room before heading to the venue, setting up, and doing a little sound-check.
I opened my set with Dependable Downer. It was 5:00 PM on a Tuesday. I was the first of 48 acts spread over six days. Very few people had arrived yet. As I continued, people trickled in. I remembered having bought a camera to record my performances, and asked people in the audience to come up to the stage, get the camera, and take a picture or two for my records. They did.
I had some pedals with me—loop sampler and distortion—but using them tends to take me away from just focusing on playing the song. So I largely skipped the pedals. By the end, for Shoot the Moon, I did use the distortion, as it is pretty integral to the song to have the textures change dramatically. Midway through, I played a cover of the Blake Babies’ song “Rain,” which was one of the first songs I learned on guitar. (I shuddered to realize that it had been 20 years earlier! Who’s middle-aged now?) It’s a great song. You should track it down if you’ve not heard it; it’s on the record “Earwig,” which is pretty much solid gold from start to finish, if you like indie pop.
By the end of the set, enough people had shown up and were into my performance enough that I felt I had accomplished something. I can’t say I felt satisfied because I’m having a hard time feeling satisfied with solo sets. Something feels out of reach. Maybe that’s why it’s good to work in that medium for awhile: to let go of whatever’s out of reach and just play well and mean it.
When I was done, I decided to lug my amp and guitar back to the hotel so I wouldn’t have to do it later on. I was a long way to lug the trusty Vibrolux Reverb (if I’d had a Twin, I’d be dead).
I made it back in about 15 minutes, in time to hear the next performer, Glenda Theuner. She was wearing high heels and a dress. She’d really dressed up for the occasion in a way that I don’t see much in rock or folk. The first song I heard had a line that moved me: “Peter Pan/where’s the little house we talked about?/Peter Pan/it’s in a tree.” She switched between a gorgeous Wurlitzer stage piano and a guitar. She was very unpretentious, which I appreciated. I was watching a real person.
The festival advertised free food from 5 PM until it ran out, which meant “burgers and dogs.” I had one burger (which, with my naturopathic diet, meant just the meat), and decided that I’d get a more complete dinner later.
I met Rob, who played with the band Kagero (see below). He complimented me on my set, and we exchanged contact information. We talked about New York (where they’re from), and he told me a little more about the scene than I knew, including booking tips. I enjoyed making a new friend.
After Glenda came the Village Jammers, a group of men who said they’d considered calling themselves “the Old Guys” (the theme of aging keeps recurring here!). They were two guitars, a mandolin, and a bass, with two or three of them singing. It was solid roots string music. I listened to a couple of their songs before slipping away to go grab some dinner (courtesy of my FestiBucks).
By the time I got back, the next act, Kagero, was part way through its set. Their tag line, “Japanese Gypsy Rock,” begins to tell the story. But I was blown away by the vitality of the performance and the music! Every song had some Gypsy or Spanish or Argentian feel—anything but the standard pop/rock/folk that most of us worked out of. It was inspiring! My blood ran hotter and faster hearing these guys! I ran to grab my camera to get a picture or two. If you have an opportunity to see Kagero live (
www.kagero.com ), please, do it. Their recorded music is cool, but unless you see them live first, you won’t get the full life of it.
I couldn’t imagine following Kagero on a bill. But Lucibel Crater (
www.lucibelcrater.com ) was up to the task. Fronted by the lovely Leah Coloff on cello (sounding like everything but a cello, thanks to extensive signal processing), this band also lived up to its moniker of “what Picasso’s band would sound like.” Leah’s husben Sarth Calhoun had two laptops and a keyboard or two, and wove rich sonic and rhythmic textures. Paul Chuffo played drums so hot the whole stage rose about 3 inches off the ground. The music was explorative and experimental, layering successive cello lines over one another over God knows what else. Dense, yet varied, and interesting. The sung lyrics were sometimes satirical, sometimes emotive. One song sounded like equal parts rap and song. Overall, they were intriguing and entertaining. Plus, I met Leah afterward and had a great time talking to her, and Sarth as well for a minute.
That was all for me. I avoid staying up past 10 when I can help it; it just sets me way back in the ensuing days. The next morning, I rose early and took the first ferry back. It was a rich trip, and one I’m glad to have made. I thank Marc, Jamie, Eric & Eric (sound—they did great things, making my whistle vocal sound so clear), and the other performers. I was honored to share the stage with them.
Note: that was just one day out of six in this festival. I'd love to have seen some of the other bills, too. It's worth the trip.